The Terroir and the Wine

Temperate, 33 degrees south, west coast peninsula location, maritime in the extreme.

The Blackwood River at Augusta

Augusta and Karridale lie in the extreme southwest.  It is a land of gently sloping hills, ancient soils and giant trees.

Winters are mild in temperature but can be wild and wet. There are days of misty rain where the wind dries you as fast as you get wet. Great golfing weather. Then there is the tempest that tries to peel the steel off the roof and deluging rain where you simply cannot be outside. It matters not, the vine is dormant

Summers are dry with a fresh south- easterly sea breeze hurrying in by ten in the morning. One needs a well fitted hat and the occasional wash to get the salt out of ones hair.

The in-between seasons are a joy. The nights are balmy, the days humid and mild and the air is still

At 33 degrees south latitude, this close to the western and southern oceans, autumn, in which the vine presents its ripening fruit, is uniquely mild.  This assists not only the very early varieties like Pinot Noir that are picked in early March but even more so the very late Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre that hang until late April.  This is highly unusual in the world of viticulture.  In higher latitudes one must match a variety to growing season and ripening time in order to escape unwanted heat while avoiding the onset of winter that will curtail sugar accumulation. If the conditions are right for the early varieties the late will never ripen. If conditions are right for the late varieties, the early varieties get grilled. Not only is one walking a tightrope in this respect but the seasons are much more variable. This year may be brilliant and the next poor.

The critical period in late autumn
The low-pressure systems that bring the winter rain are still coursing the southern ocean well to the south.  Any rain originating in cyclone activity in the tropics tends to sweep inland to the east leaving the vines to mature their fruit free of misadventure.  As the picking begins, the morning mists arising from the overnight chilling of humid air moving in off the ocean begin to dissipate.  Humidity falls from 100% to perhaps 60% at midday.  It is rare for daytime temperatures to exceed 24degrees Centigrade as the continent pulls in cool air from the sea.  The fruit slowly ripens while retaining an array of flavours that represents, to a quite unusual degree, the best potential of that fragile vessel, the grape.  This is special.

Unique versatility
The characteristics that give Margaret River its potential for quality wine production are most defined in the country south of Witchcliffe, within 20km of Cape Leeuwin.  This observation has been confirmed in climatic studies by John Gladstones and more latterly by the author.  In these studies of heat accumulation in the pre vintage period, the Three Hills environment at Karridale is compared with benchmark locations in Australia and overseas.  These papers can be accessed at http://www.happs.com.au/pages/research.html I conclude that we have an outstanding opportunity to produce wines of great stature from mid to late season varieties and real advantages with earlier varieties. Aromatic and seductive pinot noir is not out of the question, not every year, but perhaps every second or third.  Great merlot, shiraz, cabernet, malbec, mourverdre, graciano, tempranillo, grenache and nebbiolo is possible almost every year.  Semillon and chardonnay should be a delight, viognier and sauvignon blanc a treat. This is an environment of singular interest and most generous potential.

Erland Happ October 2003

The sea, the land, and the wine, Erl, Myles, Suzie
and Ros (Jeremy absent)