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A visiting Austrian wine maker describes vintage at Happs

Context. Frank Kittler, who makes wine at Happs and the worlds lightest competition bicycle frames in his home workshop in Margaret River town knows Noel Engel in California who imports some Austrian wines and he knows Michael Wenzel. There is the connection. Noel was impressed with our varietal work. He knows Margaret River because he collects the Californian Cabernets for Cape Mentelle's annual tasting. Michael and Frank will meet at Jim Clenendens Au Bon Climat in California for a northern hemisphere vintage '99. Michael's family have been making wine in Rust, Austria for 13 generations. The speciality is botrytised wines from varieties like Furmint and Yellow Muscat. Michael has recently purchased land in Tokay, Hungary, where there is a historic connection family wise, and in terms of wine style.

Vintage Experience of Michael Wenzel at Happs Winery 1999

After a three months stay during vintage1997 at Martinborough Vineyard in New Zealand I got the great opportunity to work for Happs winery in Margaret River region (Western Australia). Actually I didn't really know much about the Australian wine industry especially I had no exact idea under which climate conditions grapes would be grown.

I arrived at Happs winery in the middle of February and immediately enjoyed the atmosphere. There was the stunning landscape, breathtaking beaches and no traffic from an European's point of view (which I personally enjoyed very much). Happs family gave a wonderful introduction into aspects of the Australian lifestyle. I won't forget the evening picnics in late February/ March that we enjoyed at Smith's Beach very much. I remind that we once grilled steaks on an old saw-blade very simple but excellent. Last but not least I was invited to visit the Leeuwin Concert '99. This was the biggest drinking and eating event I have ever seen.

Harvest extended over a period of two months and so I felt comfortable and not too busy. In Austria we often have to get in all fruit between 3-4 weeks time because of rapid weather changes. In Margaret River there was enough time to driving around, visiting other wineries, meeting winemakers, tasting grapes, studying ripening curves of grapes from vineyards of the northern to the southern extremities. This was so interesting and Erl Happ opened my eyes that more or less climatic factors form a typical style of wine. The decisions in the winery, particularly the way the fruit would be processed is determined by the vineyard where the grapes were grown. Erl Happ is a restless creative thinker, a vigneron, who understands the concept of nature.

I was involved in all aspects of the daily vintage cellar work, monitoring of fermentations, analysis of fruit and wine and receiving crushing and pressing of red and white grape. I have never worked with so many different grape varieties before. I felt myself a valuable member of Happs vintage team. In the evenings I enjoyed the experience of trying a wide range of Australian wines. The wines were accompanied by the excellent meals of Ros Happ.

I don't know why but Ros Happ loved my Austrian thongs. Thongs are called "Schlapfen" in Austria. Back in Austria again I realized that I had forgotten my appreciated thongs at Happs. Well, one reason more to return back as soon as possible for visiting a individual, friendly winery, which creates wines full of character. Rust, 18th of August 1999.

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