This is a grape with a fabulous
reputation in Condrieu, a tiny
appellation in the Rhone Valley.
Unfortunately in most other
places around the world and in
France itself attempts to
reproduce a wine that has the
same depth of flavour have been
unsuccessful.
We
believe that this wine is out of
the box, and all who taste it
agree.
As
a variety Viognier does not grow
well. It tends to overburden
itself with many, many bunches
on spindly little shoots with
pale leaves giving every
indication that it will do this
last thing before expiring in
disgust at an unappreciative
world. That is a recipe for thin
wine. Left to itself the plant
produces an inconsequential
drop. Tasting the wine you
wonder what all the fuss is
about.
So, we drop half the crop on the
ground, hand pick it to exclude
the botrytis, to which it is
susceptible, and treat it to
fermentation in Oak where the
yeast has the best chance of
consuming all the sugar. Without
a great deal of grape flavour
that could be cruel. If the
ferment doesn’t finish properly
we lose the plot. About one year
in two or three we get it right,
and we are working on improving
our average.
Current Vintage: 2004