The Vine
From
http://www.redbottle.com/products_ioppa/ioppa.html
'Nebbiolo is a native of Piedmont in the North West of Italy. The vine is grown for the production of Nebbiolo d'Alba, Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Bramaterra, Lessona, Gattinara, Carema, Sizzano, Fara, Ghemme, Boca, Langhe Nebbiolo, Colline Novaresi and Nebbiolo o Spanna.
The climate is rigid by Italian standards, with distinct changes of season. Winters are cold with plenty of snow. Summers are for the most part hot and dry. Spring and fall are temperate to cool with fog normal at harvest time. A majority of the region's vineyards are located in the Langhe and Monferrato hills, which are connected to the Apennines in the southeast. But several wines of significance are also grown along the foothills of the Alps to the north between Lake Maggiore and Valle d'Aosta.
The focal point of premium production is the town of Alba on the Tanaro River. In the nearby Langhe hills, Barolo ("king of wines and wine of kings") is produced at the rate of about 6 million bottles a year and Barbaresco, which many experts rate its equal, rarely reaches 2.5 million bottles. Both come from Nebbiolo, which gives them the powerful structure that makes them capable of improving for many years'
Our perspective on this vine.
Like all grapes with the potential to express individual character Nebbiolo needs cool and moderate ripening circumstances. Strangely it is almost confined to Piedmonte. Part of the explanation for that may well be in the ripening circumstances in this cool northern, semi alpine area. It may also be due to the fact that the grape is intensely tannic, almost inedible as fresh fruit and with a reputation of requiring long aging as a wine. An understanding of the need for cash flow is not new. Despite this it has been valued in Piedmonte above all others. Those who cut it down would be fined. Recidivists could be punished by the removal of a hand. Piedmont is the oldest appellation in Italy and they take their business seriously.
'Nebbia' refers to the fog that is frequent at vintage time. Nebbiolo is called 'Spanna' in Novara. Tar and roses are said to be itís signature aromatics.
Nebbiolo is a very distinctive creature, with a habit suggesting that it is not much changed since it emerged from the forest. Long spindly growth, long interdodes, light seeking, tiny leaves, leafing out earlier than Chardonnay, taking a battering from spring storms, must endure the entire summer to present its fruit almost as late in the season as Mourvedre. The acidity can be high, most of it is malic as with Pinot Noir, and the pH climbs alarmingly after the malolactic. It distinguishes itself also in that it's berries are impossible to pluck intact, as with some clones of pinot. But its most interesting characteristic is a phenomenal tannin structure.......quite unlike any other grape. It is a study in spice and flavour. It has no need of acid in the final wine.
The Wine
Until 2004 we had 180 nebbiolo vines that produce about three barriques of wine. Reckoned as 750ml units that is 900 bottles. Nebbiolo is a most interesting prospect, far in front in my estimation, of Sangiovese, which we also grow, in its potential to make a red wine of distinction. Consequently, we have just planted a couple of hectares.
The most pleasing characteristic of the Three Hills Nebbiolo is that the wine has the fruit to match its tannins. Together, we have a wine to properly engage your attention. There is fruit from the bramble bush including raspberry in wild profusion, plenty of alcohol, and then, remarkably, the singularly spicy, savoury, peppery tannins finishing sweet and long. One tends to return immediately for another look. Several tunes are playing in harmony like a Beethoven sonata.
We look forward to getting to know this assertive Italian friend better. Varietal Nebbiolo has been released from the 99 and 2001 vintages. The Italian journalist Maurizio Gily was, I believe, very complimentary about the 99 but, not reading Italian, I can not enlarge on that.
Each bottle in this release is numbered and carries my signature. It is my personal favourite. I don't mind championing the odd underdog. Purchasers who aim to cellar this wine might like to register their ownership with us. If the wine appreciates at auction or does anything untoward or remarkable we will let you know. If you forget where it came from we will be in a position to remind you.
Current vintage is 2001
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